Top

What I Learned About Myself When I Started Surfing

June 16, 2015

Category:

The summer I started taking surf lessons, I got caught in a powerful current. It pulled me down the beach until I was 15 yards from a shallow reef. If I stopped paddling, I would end up on the rocks, but my arms had turned to jelly and I could barely catch my breath. As I panicked, my instructor appeared beside me. “Grab my leash!” he shouted. I did, and he towed me to safety.

Read More